What to Expect When Staying at a Traditional Ryokan in Japan
If you're planning a trip to Japan, staying in a traditional ryokan should be at the top of your list. This isn’t just a hotel where you sleep off the day, — it’s a fully immersive cultural experience that will change you.
Staying in a ryokan has easily been one of my favourite travel memories to date. It’s a slower, more intentional way of travel rooted in hospitality, ritual, and a deep reverence for the moment.
What Is a Ryokan?
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn that dates back hundreds of years. Unlike a modern hotel, a ryokan immerses you in classic Japanese culture from the moment you step inside. They’re outfitted with sliding shoji doors, tatami mat floors, yukata robes, and multi-course kaiseki dinners.
Every element — from the tea you’re served on arrival to the way your futon is laid out during “turn down” service — is an act of thoughtful hospitality. It’s a thoughtful, softer, deeply human experience.
Our Stay: Biwako Grand Hotel
Let me tell you more about the specific ryokan that we stayed at.
Dean and I spent a couple of nights at the Biwako Grand Hotel, just outside Kyoto in the quiet town of Otsu.
This lakeside ryokan offers panoramic views of Lake Biwa (Japan’s largest freshwater lake), and the entire experience felt like a reset. Our room overlooked the water, the sunrise views (from our private onsen!) were unreal, and every little detail — from the yukata robes to the breakfast trays — made us feel wrapped in comfort.
One of our absolute favourite parts? Wearing the traditional yukata. It’s a lightweight cotton robe provided by the ryokan, and wearing it throughout the evening — even to dinner — was such a fun and relaxing part of the experience. There's something special about slipping into it after a long soak and walking to dinner feeling cozy, refreshed, and fully immersed in the culture.
And speaking of soaking — the private onsen attached to our room was everything. Sitting in that steamy bath each morning, watching the sun rise over the lake in complete stillness? Total core memory unlocked. You just can’t beat it.
What to Expect During Your Stay
Tatami Rooms and Futons
Forget hotel beds - trust me it’s better than it sounds. In a ryokan, you’ll sleep on thick, cloud-soft futons rolled out directly on tatami mats. They’re put away during the day and set up for you at night — usually while you’re at dinner — so you come back to the coziest little nighttime nest.
Kaiseki Meals
As I’ve said in my past posts, the food in Japan is insanely delicious. And ryokan food takes their food seriously. One of the highlights of any ryokan stay is the food — especially kaiseki, a seasonal multi-course dinner that’s equal parts culinary art and cultural ritual. Each dish is meticulously prepared to reflect local ingredients and traditions.
The breakfast buffets are equally as impressive. They feature everything from grilled salmon and tamagoyaki to pickled vegetables and miso soup. A full spread before 9 a.m. that had me rethinking pancakes and bacon forever.
Onsen Baths
One of the most special things about ryokans is the access to onsen (natural hot spring baths), which can be either shared or private. There’s nothing like slipping into an onsen — especially one that’s open-air with lake views. At the Biwako Grand Hotel where we stayed, the public bath options included both indoor and outdoor hot springs and some rooms (including ours!) even include a private hot spring. If you book a stay here, I highly recommend choosing a room with your own private hot spring to enjoy.
Yukata Robes
You’ll be given a yukata, a lightweight cotton robe, to wear during your stay — and trust me, you’ll want to live in it. It’s completely normal (and encouraged!) to wear it around the property, to dinner, and even while lounging in your room. It’s part of what makes the experience feel relaxed, cozy, and a little bit magical.
Unforgettable Hospitality
This is where ryokans truly shine. The care, the thoughtfulness, the small rituals — everything is designed to make you feel completely at ease. There's a gentle rhythm to your stay, one that feels both intimate and luxurious without ever being flashy.
It’s the kind of experience that reminds you just how beautiful, simple, attentive living can be.
Tips for Your First Ryokan Stay
Pack socks — you’ll be barefoot or in slippers indoors.
Be prepared to slow down — a ryokan stay is meant to be savored, enjoy it.
Follow the customs — like changing into a yukata, bathing before using the onsen, and enjoying meals at the scheduled times.
Book early — especially if you're visiting popular areas like Hakone, Kyoto, or the Japanese Alps.
If you’re planning a trip to Japan, do yourself a favor: make room in your itinerary for at least one ryokan stay.
You’ll leave feeling not just rested, but truly renewed. 💛